Written by Tom Krause
American Trapper Magazine, Nov./Dec.1991 - Jan./Feb.1992
Some fourteen months ago I was asked to serve as leader of a fur trappers delegation to the Soviet Union . Flattered, I eagerly accepted, and began a communications process to discover things American trappers could do and might want to do in the U.S.S.R. It is fair to say international polities complicated our efforts, and translations were also confusing at times. (Three Russian words mean "trap" yet there is no word for "trapper").
At long last (he agenda was tightened up to my liking. My requests to minimize meetings with party officials was honored to a large degree, and I was elated to team my pleas to visit remote areas of Siberia was also being allowed. Yes, we would bring our fishing poles and sleeping bags even thought that meant we'd have to leave our tics and suits at home to stay under the Aeroflot weight limits for our flights.
When it seemed everything had fallen into place, I called Woodstream Corporation to ask if they would air freight a variety of traps to my contact in Moscow . I knew we would want to leave gifts for the Soviet trappers, and a sampling of the traps we use would surely be interesting and serviceable. Happily, Woodstream accepted my request as well as the air freight bill.
And then there was the coup. President Bush told Americans to stay home, and the traps were rerouted to Helsinki and then became lost. Those of us who had been working to make this trip happen watched the news like everyone else. We didn't want to hear any more bad news so we did the prudent thing - we just didn't call each other.
But in just a few days, it became clear the coup failed and the world watched a tired Gorbachev return to Moscow . Our phone lines were busy then. We deter-mined our safely had not been compromised by the political and military events in Moscow , so I quickly circulated letters lo the delegates to assure them the trip was on. Last minute details were included in my letter, and since our trap shipment appeared lost, I asked all to pack two traps to take as gifts.
Only one of the delegates had been forced to cancel, and the remaining 24 (including myself) met at the JFK Holiday Inn for a briefing and lunch on Friday, September 6th. Our briefing by Citizen Ambassador Program staff helped a great deal to answer questions about interna-tional travel at the luncheon, and we departed the hotel for our 5:30 p.m. flight via a Pan Am 747 to Moscow . Flying at jet speed from west to cast took about 8-1/2 hours, but shortened the hours of darkness considerably. We crossed seven time zones en route, and arrived in Moscow about 9:30 a.m. Saturday.
Very much aware that we didn't understand a word being spoken anywhere, we were relieved to be met before customs by a young woman who introduced herself as Tamara Korsakova. She would be acting as our guide and interpreter in Moscow , and we were grateful she spoke English well and had a quick smile.
Also meeting us as we declared our finances and passed through customs was Andre Trubnikov. Andre had been my Moscow contact person, and I was happy to hear the Woodstreams traps had arrived. The Conibears had caused a stir at customs, and he said with a chuckle, "They had never seen such traps."
Travelling by bus to the Central Tourist House, we gathered the passports and visas to turn in at the hotel registration desk. In turn, a receipt is issued, and this piece of paper is turned over to the floor lady on the floor of the assigned room. The floor lady is a different concept, and one person at all times is supposed to be at the floor desk to accept passes for room keys. The idea is when you leave, you turn over your key for a pass, and when you return, you turn in your pass for your key.
From a tourists viewpoint, the process had two advantages. For one, someone keeps an eye on your room (particularly if she is tipped with American cigarettes or candy). And secondly, the pass, written in Russian, can be shown to a cab driver in the event you are lost, and the cabby will get you back home.
Since the day was still new in Moscow , we just took time to clean up before lunch. The rooms were small by American standards, and the bed was narrower than a twin size. It seems everywhere in the U.S.S.R, beds are no wider than 36 inches . Next we exchanged some dollars for rubles in the hotel, and we left for a guided tour of the city. We could see immediately we were in a different world. People were standing in long lines waiting to get into stores. Tobacco stands were abundant and they too had dozens or even hundreds of people lined up to buy.
We learned from our guide that 12 million people lived in Moscow . People seemed to be everywhere, especially in lines waiting to buy something. Tamara explained very little was available in stores. Frequently, you bought a pair of shoes or whatever was available when you could, regardless of size, color or fit. Then you went out of the store and tried to swap someone for a pair that fit, or you sold your purchase at a profit.
It soon became apparent that the government was involved with virtually everything. The government owned the big stores, known as the GUM (pronounced "goom"). One of the largest department stores in the world, the GUM's are also the world's emptiest stores.
I wasn't quite prepared for the fact there are no houses in Moscow . Everyone lives the same under the communist theories, and Moscow is simply filled with concrete apartment buildings. Many rose for 12 or 16 stories, and wash was to be seen everywhere hanging out to dry on the apartment patios.
Tamara explained to us that a waiting list was necessary to get an apartment, and newlyweds often had no choice other than to live with a set of parents until an apartment became available in two or three years. Although Russian made cars were abundant, people without cars were much more abundant, and the waiting list for people to buy cars took as long as seven years of waiting.
A city that size requires methods to move people, and part of the solution was an almost constant flow of buses. Public buses were always in view, and buses often followed each other at stops every minute or so. Most buses, most times, seemed full, yet it didn't appear many people had to wait long to get a ride.
Several things struck me about the Moscovites. Although I expected some men to be sweeping streets with stick brooms, and I expected some of the older women to be roundish and drab, I was surprized to see many of the younger women in bright colors, high heels, and well made up. The younger men as well as the younger women on average looked very much like Americans to me. Or more properly, we looked very much like them.
Designs on nylon stockings were very popular with the women. Also very popular was reddish colored hair. While a reddish dye on a brunette looked strange to me, I had to remember that I was the visitor.
It seems everyone smokes cigarettes too. Younger, older, male and female, most Moscovites seemed to smoke frequently.
But I noticed something unusual and positive too. People, everywhere, were reading. On buses, waiting for buses, waiting in the ever-present lines, folks were engrossed in magazines, newspapers, and especially books.
In spite of the fact there are real tax advantages in the U.S.S.R. to have families of five or more children, family sizes seemed small. Many couples had no children with them, and seeing a couple with more than one or two children was a rarity.
Something else that might have been a result of communal working, and communal living was the existence of unmowed grass. In parks, by apartments or businesses, grass was knee high virtually everywhere. The sheer abundance of unmowed grass (and weeds) seemed a contrast where everything else was organized, orderly, and in line.
Tamara brought us to date on the economics in the Soviet Union . Most workers, including interpreters, made about 250 rubles a month. Doctors (socialized, free medical care) made about 300 rubles. Highest wage earners seemed to be the bus drivers who were paid about 400 rubles a month. All pay income taxes monthly.
The economic problems hinge on the devalued rubles and an annual inflation rate of 200 percent. At this time it takes 32 rubles lo equal an American dollar. The value of the ruble is therefore worth about 3 tents. Doctors, at 300 rubles a month earn about the same value as $9.38. Wealthier bus drivers lake home the equivalent of $12.50 monthly.
If that seems to be a misprint, understand this. The average price of a four room apartment in Moscow is about 22 rubles a month (paid to the government of course). In American dollars, that equals less than 70 cents for the months rent. Further, the rent includes electricity, heat, and the phone bill!
I asked our guide if people were now able to buy their apartments as the Soviet rules change. She answered yes, but at an approximate cost of about $5000 American dollars, few people could consider such an expensive purchase. Those who might be able to afford that cost weren't much interested in apartment investments simply because there wasn't enough money anywhere to create a demand to protect the investment.
On our first day in Moscow Tamara took us to the famous Red Square . Situated just outside the Kremlin walls, Red Square (translate Beautiful Square ) is a large cobblestone area by Lenin's Tomb and the famous, turreted, Saint Basils' Cathedral. Our group witnessed the hourly changing of the guard at Lenin's Tomb. The goose-stepping guards were precise, military and formal. We appreciated the hourly change that has been going on for scores of years.
Tamara look us through St. Basil's Cathedral. Built in 1556, the church consists of nine chapels all built on the same foundation. This famous cathedral, often seen in photographs, was built as a national celebration in victory over Ivan The Terrible. Frescoes, or the art inside the cathedral, were older than America , and still awe-inspiring. As in other cathedrals in the Soviet Union , photographs were not allowed to be taken.
Next we toured the historic Novodevichy Convent. Priceless art and gold artifacts adorned the cathedral in the exquisitive splendor of centuries past. Several obviously very old graves were also observed within the walled convent grounds, and I couldn't help but wonder what those people might think if they could stand erect and look around today.
With a little daylight left, we stopped the bus on a scenic overlook of the city of Moscow . Two enterprising men had set up life size photo placards of Yeltsin and Gorbachev, so we look a few liberties to photograph each other with the likenesses of the Soviet leaders.
Dinner was back at the hotel. During our entire visit, our meals had been scheduled and pre-paid. Eating in restaurants is risky in Russia . Usually only one thing is on the menu, and you take it or leave it. Other times the restaurants can be closed as food is not available. Fast food establishments simply do not occur with the single exception being a McDonalds in Moscow . And as you might expect, there were long lines waiting to buy an American type hamburger.
Our bus passed the foundation where a large statue of Feliks Dzerzhinsky recently stood. Erected in the memory of the founder of the feared secret police, the statue outside the main KGB building had been removed by the people, and now American like, the remaining foundation contained graffiti. Someone had placed the Russian tri-color flag on lop of white, blue and red.
Sunday dawned bright and Tamara led us around the Kremlin. (Kremlin means fortress). The Soviet flag with sickle and hammer was displayed as was the Russian tricolor flag. Missing was the communist flag (hat had long flown over the Kremlin with the red Soviet flag. High walls and some 20 towers surround the buildings within the Kremlin. Some buildings are government offices, and some museums, cultural centers, and cathedrals also exist within the Kremlin walls.
Two cathedrals dating back to Ivan The Terrible and Peter The Great are restored in original condition. Frescoes have been refurbished, and gold plated turrets certainly commanded our attention and appreciation.
Our luncheon took place downtown, and we had to knock to gain our entrance after we identified our group. Although we had access to wonderfully prepared food, it was not available to the public outside. A group sang and played music for us while we ate, and the afternoon provided opportunity to visit a local natural history museum. Of course, we were most interested in the mounted displays of the various furbearing species found throughout the nation.
Monday, before our afternoon flight to rural Siberia, we had opportunity to visit Moscow 's significant fur manufacturing facility, translated to mean, "The Russian Furs". A government owned and operated facility since 1937, the facility was beginning to privatize. One clue was the company now has a president rather than a director as leader. With some 4,000 employees, 60 percent of which are women, the company processes some 45 percent of the national fur garment productions.
I was able to arrange a private meeting with the company president, and I invited five others from our delegation to participate in our discussions. My hope was to get some support from this businessman to the French Embassy on the European Economic Community legislation. The company president, whose name I am unable to translate, seemed unimpressed with our dilemma. In fact, since the company was now in a partnership situation with an Italian firm, he might have seen a marketing advantage situation. His comments to me centered around the idea wild furs were only three to four percent of their entire production, but that certainly was not supported by the volume of wild skins we saw in various stages of garment production.
I am not sure our interpreter was able to communicate our message properly. The company president seemed uninformed on this serious issue, and we explained the economics of this legislation would have a serious and negative impact upon their ability to export to the EC countries. To further inform him of the ramifications. I left other documents explaining how the trap standards business will impact trade in all furs (except currently mink and fox}.
As the largest single fur processor in the U.S.S.R., it occurred to us they might be interested in buying wild American furs. In fact, the company has a buyer in place right now in New York City , and he is actively seeking both raccoons and opossums at prices they are comfortable paying.
We departed a different Moscow airport in the late afternoon after storing extra clothes in a guarded hotel room. Our flight was aboard an Aeroflot jet, similar in size to a DC-10. To our surprise, several dogs were sitting in passenger seals next to their masters. Our flight to Yakutsk was easterly 4800 miles , and crossed six more time zones. We essentially eliminated six hours of darkness while flying, and our jet lag was beginning lo suffer more confusion.
The Aeroflot jet was quite modern. The only airline allowed within the Soviet Union (also government owned), Aeroflot is the single largest airline in the world at present. They fly more miles, and carry more people than any other airline. Our round-trip tickets for this flight cost $638. However, our guide Andre's ticket was priced in rubles because he is a Soviet citizen, and that price was 186 rubles. In American dollar buying power, his ticket for the round-trip, 4800 mile each way flight was only $7.
There were no assigned seats on this flight, so our group had to separate. Sitting next to others without on ability to communicate wasn't much of a problem during a night flight. However, all rows were smoking rows, and that led to some non-smoker discomfort.
Including the time advance, our flight of six hours counted as twelve hours. It seems about the time it got dark and sleeping was possible, dawn appeared and one wondered where the night went.
Dropping down through an overcast sky, I couldn't see much of Yakutsk until we were nearly on the ground. As we waited for our bags to come out on the circulating belt along with others from our flight, I couldn't help but notice that all of the Soviet citizen bags were encased with sewn covers, or were wrapped with paper and ropes. I'd never seen anything like it. With all the suitcases carefully wrapped and sewn shut, and it finally hit me they were concealed to discourage and help prove pilferage.
We became concerned when our bags didn't appear with others from the flight. and we discovered our bags were being specially delivered to an area usually reserved for communist party officials. Our interpreter, Andre, informed me that this region was formerly off limits to foreign visitors. The area was economically depressed, even by Soviet standards, and Andre advised us to be careful not to flash money as some local people would kill to gain 25 rubles (about 75 cents).
We met several members and interpreters from a local travel company here, including two more Andre's. After greetings and loading our bags on the waiting bus, we travelled to the newest hotel facility which was fenced and guarded day and night at the main gate. Checking into our rooms, we discovered no seals on the toilets, and the bathtubs were only six or eight inches high. The idea was to use a hose and shower type head while you squatted, I guess. There were no curtains to help contain the water in the small square tubs, and another item of interest was only one faucet handle was hooked up. A mixture of hot and cold water was supposed to come through the pipes, but after waiting and waiting for some heat to appear, most of us shivered through a cold shower before lunch.
Immediately after the meal we met with representatives of the Yakutpromokota, or the professional hunters association. Discussion were begun by Korkin Yuri, General Director of the association. Yuri explained that all trapping was done by professional (government) hunters in this region. Duties in season were to also shoot reindeer, bears, and moose for the local markets. Fur management was accomplished with the checkerboard method. In essence, harvests occurred only in the area of black squares, and the adjoining red square areas were sanctuaries where harvests did not occur in any given year.
Yuri asked how we were able to manage furbearers without a system for equal land areas as reserves. We explained that the American system was much different in that sportsmen generally took the harvest without government support. And because America is fertile and relatively few people set traps, harvests were actually tiny and did not stress the furbearing species.
The General Director seemed to doubt this information. He stated that his trappers were highly skilled at trapping animals with wood and wire traps, and he thought some sort of contest was in order.
When it seemed to me this conversation wasn't going forward, I dumped a dozen different types of leghold and Conibear traps on the floor, and suddenly the Soviets were forward on their chairs or on their knees on the floor examining the traps. As I suspected, they were much higher quality than any they ever had, and the Conibears in particular drew a lot of jabbering in Russian.
American trappers began using all available interpreters to explain uses of the traps, and our delegates began showing photos of beaver and marten in Conibears, foxes and raccoons in legholds, and so on.
There wasn't any more discussions about a contest, and the meeting ended on a happy, friendly note. A sample of each Woodstream model trap was given to General Director Korkin, and he seemed very pleased.
On the afternoon schedule was a visit to the local fur manufacturing plant. Still government owned and operated, this facility produced fur garments and fur novelty items as well. A variety of products were made here from reindeer skins and from the hides of wooly wild horses. Most workers here were women, and the majority wore dresses of two different print fabrics. Not work uniforms, these clothes apparently were inexpensive and may have been the only fabrics available. Since most dress designs using the same fabric were different, I concluded rightly or wrongly that the ladies had sewn their own clothes from the same supply of fabric.
There is a saying in Russia that the workers pretend to work, and the government pretends to pay. But that is only half true. Everywhere we went we saw people honestly working, and working hard too. You can tell if a plant has been set up to look busy. The ones we visiled were engaged in production and that was obvious as everyone knew their jobs well and all operations were flowing smoothly.
Regardless of what anyone might tell you, hear this. The Soviet people are smart and know how to work. The significant differences between Soviets and Americans are mostly cultural or the result of generations of political direction and allowances. With a change of clolhes, you would be unable to discern an American from a Russian.
This Siberian fur factory had a hard currency retail shop, so we spent some time shopping for souvenirs to take home. Carved ivory products were also available here and everywhere in Yakutsk . The ivory is from an extinct species of wooly mammoth found preserved all over northern Siberia . We were confused whether or not this ivory (made from tusks) was illegal to take into the U.S. due to the endangered species hoopla. Regardless, buying ivory products from a long extinct species didn't seem to me to threaten that species, but I couldn't promise anyone their ivory purchases wouldn't be confiscated by our own agents upon arrival back in New York city .
Yakutsk is certainly an interesting city. Permafrost three feet below the soil surface requires all large buildings to be built on stilts above ground. Otherwise, the ground thaws beneath the buildings and they topple. Another feature that was unusual was the city has a universal heating system. Hot water is piped above ground through a series of insulated pipes to all major buildings and used as the heat source. Here and there pumping and reheating stations were necessary, and since rents include heating, no system was needed or used to determine bills for the heating service.
Besides the Moscow-like high rise apartments. Yakutsk also had a variety of wooden buildings to also house residents. Many of these residences had attached hot houses for the families to grow food indoors away from the cold. Cucumbers and tomatoes seemed to be favorites growing in these protected places.
Dinner was specially prepared for us in a restaurant not open to the public. Roasted duck was the entree, and caviar, vodka, and a peach flavored drink added different flavors than we usually found in meals back home.
This evening we attended a party sponsored by representatives of the professional hunters organizations. Extra interpreters were brought in so Soviets and Americans could visit in small groups. The entertainment had a Mongolian flavor and included folk songs, stories, acrobatics and tricks. Beverages were abundant, and cold cuts included boiled and peeled reindeer tongue.
I was asked to meet with Gavril V. Rumyantscv, the Deputy General Director of the government hunters association, and Maxsimov Anatoly, a ranking director of the Foreign Economic Association. Both gentlemen were very much interested in the traps we had brought to Siberia , and discussions centered around methods to purchase more traps without the advantage of hard currencies. Easy answers escaped us. Since the fur collection was government supported, the sable and other collected furs became the property of the government. Sables to be sold are only offered at the St. Petersburg (formerly Leningrad) auctions, and that hard cash would be used many places before quality traps could be bought and shipped to producers in rural Siberia.
Essentially the government hunters had no money other than rubles which cannot be exported, so we discussed trade in marketable items which were not controlled by the government to trade for American made traps. A year ago such discussions wouldn't have happened, but with much uncertainty today about Soviet rules and laws, new possibilities for trade can and must be explored.
Another item of discussion centered around the possibility to bring a Soviet trapper to the United States for exposure to our methods of collection and management. Costs and logistical problems were discussed, and we promised to continue our communications via our fax machines as more information could be learned in the months ahead.
As the evening ended I was able to give the officers some materials to share with their trappers. Such items included copies of this publication and The Trapper and Predator Caller, the NTA Trapping Handbook, and videos provided by Fur-Fish-Game magazine.
Wednesday morning we departed on schedule on a hydrofoil down the Lena River . Hydrofoils are boats that lift the hulls out of the water to reduce drag as they skim on skis, and our boat easily carried us and our gear at speeds of 60 kilometers per hour. (About 45 mph ). The city of Yakutsk is a sea port via the Lena River to the Arctic Ocean . Weather allows the port to be open only during warmer months, and the river ice forms to depths of nine feet in winter. That allows the river to be plowed and serves as a winter road as well.
Leaving town and speeding along the channels norlhward, we simply sped out of view of civilization. Hours later we approached the only small community on the Lena , a coal mining town known as the Sangar Settlement, or Sangari. Although the town was only about 45 years old, the unpainted wooden log buildings seemed to be much older, and there was very little paving. Small boats lined the river beach, and an elevated pipe hot water system similar to Yakutsk was also in use here to heat virtually everything during the incredibly cold winter temperatures.
The town mayor accepted us into his office and he told us of the fertility of the land. He said fruits, berries and mushrooms were abundant in the forests, and the waters held many large fishes.
The local school was handy so several of our group briefly visited the school. Boys wore blue uniforms, and soon a number of students were recessed to go meet the first Americans to visit their town. The boys gave us medals and pins that are commonly worn and valued, and in trade, we gave them candy, gum, and American coins. Soon the boys had us signing autographs for them, and they giggled to see our silly names written with a silly alphabet.
Lunch had been well prepared for us here too. Fish soup was served first along with fermented mares milk. The soup included a whole fish {head included) some six or eight inches long, and the fermented marcs milk had an alcoholic yet sweet taste. Still to come was the meat, and it was also delicious. In fact, we applauded the cooks for their efforts, then discovered we had eaten a horse.
With 40 or 50 miles yet to travel on the river, we couldn't dally in town and boarded the hydrofoil for several more hours of speeding northward. Our destination was the trapping camp of the government hunters. Located 96 miles north of Yakutsk , our camp would be within a few miles of the Arctic Circle and the tundra. A warm and bright day, the river boat ride north was a beautiful experience as the predominant white birches were in full yellow colors, and a variety of shrubs displayed red and purple colors. Also abundant along the river were some species of alder, pines, spruce and tamarack or larches.
As we approached our campsite toward evening, the captain slowed and blew the whistle to announce our arrival to the area trappers. They responded immediately with a motorboat escort, including a handheld lighted flare, as they led us to the prepared campsite a half mile beyond their cluster of small log cabins. Individual tents had been set up for each of us. and a campfire had been lighted for our convenience.
As leader of the Americans, I was introduced to the local leader of the government hunters, Alexander Dmi-trievich.
Dressed in camo clothes, Alexander welcomed us and suggested we make ourselves at home in the pitched tents. They had shot a bear for us the day before, so the ladies we brought from Yakutsk immediately made good use of the fire to begin the stew. The leader suggested we could fish in the river in the morning, and that we would begin our trapping information interchange following a little fishing and breakfast.
The bear stew was excellent. In addition, the Soviet ladies in our group had gathered some native plants and leaves to make a tea for us, and it also was very good. We learned through the translators the tea recipe was good medicine to keep us warm through the night.
At this first ever meeting of American and Soviet trappers in Siberia , each group seemed a little uneasy or hesitant to communicate freely with the other. Smiles were evident on both sides, yet sitting around the fire most communications seemed more formal. Most trappers were tired from the long day and retired to their tent early. Tired myself, I also turned in early.
Snuggled in my long underwear in my sleeping bag, sleep became difficult. The reason was a certain New York biologist, who shall remain nameless, was heard to be leading some Soviets in the song. "Row, Row, Row Your Boat".
By 5:30 most of us were up with fishing rods in hand. Americans wandered upstream and down, and by breakfast most had caught northern pike, yellow perch, or both. Missouri veterinarian, Jim Fallen, had the largest pike of the morning. Some of the fish were released, and others were cleaned for our lunch meal.
After breakfast of a sweet flavored rice gruel, Alexander and his trappers landed at camp in their motorboats. We decided to break into two groups, one group would involve in land trapping methods, and the other group would demonstrate water trapping methods. According to plan, the groups would just switch after lunch, and all would have the same opportunities to share and learn.
I helped divide the Americans into two groups and joined the land trappers for the morning program. Alexander led us into the woods and with the help of several helpers made us a sample of their "wooden trap". The wooden trap was a deadfall design that was made above the usual snow level of several feet. A running pole was added to allow a sable to climb into the trap, and weight could also be added easily to allow more holding or
killing force.
The triggering design was one I had only seen before in Soviet trapping literature, and was foot or weight activated. The trigger system used two pieces of wire, a treadle stick, and a trigger stick that was suspended with a piece of wire and interacted with the stick treadle. The trigger sensitivity could be altered quite easily with a little knife work by an experienced trapper, and I was absolutely convinced the apparatus was both humane and moderately effective for taking climbing mustelids such as marten, sable and fisher.
Although the poles had been pre-cut and debarked, it took two experienced trappers about 45 minutes to make the set. Through translators, Alexander said experienced trappers could make wooden traps by themselves in 20 minutes or so, and that the sets could also be made on the ground for other types of furbearers.
Another deadfall system for smaller animals was demonstrated by Maksimov Anatoly, who is assistant to the General Director of the Yakutpromochota. He whittled three piece collapsible triggers from a piece of wood, and demonstrated with a split log how the trap worked on small animals. Somewhat different in concept from the four trigger design used early in this country lo also trigger deadfalls, I confess the Soviet triggering method is easier to make. It is also very sensitive and seems more dependable.
Other land trapping demonstrations by the Soviets used simple cubby type sets with balance poles used for fastening the leghold traps. The idea with a balance pole is to allow the pole to lift the trapped animal off of the ground after the catch is made. Trapped animals die rather quickly in the Siberian winters, and an elevated animal is prevented from having its fur chewed by rodents.
The Soviet version of a wolf trap interested us a great deal. A double longspring design, the trap featured a round base and a trap pan trigger system which used a piece of muslin cloth attached to the trap dog mechanism. Later we were to see the same trap used wilh a triggering system using four pieces of twine. Without a permanent or factory made trap pan, each trapper was on his own to provide one and probably replace it with each catch.
With the Soviet presentations over, the Americans provided some learned trapping skills. John Zabielski, a trapper from Tok , Alaska , produced the Alaskan #9 wolf trap. A large version of coilspring trap, this model has found favor with Alaskan wolf trappers in recent years, and John demonstrated some methods he uses to catch wolves in the devices.
Following Zabiclski's wolf trapping and snaring demonstration, he demonstrated a popular version of marten set he uses that might have values for the Soviets trapping martens and sables.
Very much aware the Soviets were interested in our Conibears, I took liberty to demonstrate how the 120's and 220's could be used on running pole sets. Double headed 16d nails were used to suspend the smaller traps a few inches above the running poles, and the method of fastening the larger 220's was exactly like demonstrated at this years NTA Convention by Ontario trapper, Alcide Giroux.
Spruce boughs were inserted through the trap springs to discourage an animal from leaping over the trap, and the Soviets understood and liked the method very much.
Aware I had their undivided attention, and noticing I had left the safety hooks on the placed Conibear, I deliberately stuck my hand into the trap to fire it. That got quite a reaction, and they became amused as I pointed out the trap spring safeties had prevented any real force. We all enjoyed a good laugh a.s they figured oul how I had tricked them.
In the afternoon we simply switched places and the group I was with rode in small boats across the river and into the bush to a pond holding a population of muskrats. Demonstrating the Siberian techniques of muskrat (rapping was an energetic Russian named Kychkin Ivan Nikonovich. Their trap of preference happened to be hand-made submarine or tunnel trap, no! unlike you have seen used to catch fish.
The trappers made these traps in their spare time with wire and mesh fencing materials, and the funnel entrance was only on one end instead of both.
Discovering a bank den and the submerged run leading into deeper water, Kychin submerged the trap with the opening toward the bank den, and completed Ihe set by fencing it off somewhat with sticks poked into the mud. He explained that the 'rats left the den submerged and entered the trap placed in this fashion. Since the funnel opened near the center of the trap, a muskrat swimming around looking for an exit usually didn't find it before drowning occurred.
The Soviet trapper suggested that since 'rats swimming toward the bank dens were often on the water surface, the trap was more effective wilh the opening toward the den,
Kychkin also demonstrated a set using a longspring leghold irap on a slick that was submerged. For bailing a 'rat, the stick was scraped showing a whitish line immediately below the trap downward. He explained their 'rats noticed this white scrape mark and following it upward often put their heads or feet into the set trap.
Through a translator we suggested they tried lo bait the trap pan with a piece of carrot or other bail. Kychkin laughed at this suggestion because the earlier group had also made the same suggestion.
Before dinner most of the Americans opted to go fishing, and our hosts took us several miles downstream to a favorite spot. The fishing was the fastest and best most of us had ever seen anywhere. Virtually everyone in our group caught at least several northern pike from six or eighi to 15 pounds or so, and many also caught yellow perch that weighed several pounds. At times many of us had fish on at the same time and we had to walk under each others lines as we played fish closer and further from shore.
Too excited to take many photos or try to count fish, we didn't get all our communications correct and we released most fish back into the river. Fifty or so large pike were kept however, and made two boats ride low in the water due to the weigh! of the fish. Back at camp, these pike were chunked into sections for smoking and would serve folks back at the Sangar Settlement as a winter food supply.
Dinner included an offering of raw, salted fish. The size of large sardines, these fish needed to have their heads and innards removed, then were simply eaten. Most passed on the culinary option, but leaders have to set examples so I ate one and smiled a sorry little smile.
The main dish for this meal was fish soup, and a bowl with a slurgeon head was passed to our only lady delegate. Betty Zabielski ( Yukon Betty). At first surprised. Betty was game and managed to eat at lcast some choice parts, if there arc any on a sturgeon head.
At this meal we were served a warm drink that tasted much like cranberries. An interpreter explained that the cooks had gotten up before dawn to gather four different wild berries from the forest just so they could make this drink for us. We were very impressed and gave the gals a round of applause. Most of us had never met women, much less good looking women, who had learned gathering and cooking skills wiih wild foods. These ladies knew ihe edible fruits, berries, nuts and mushrooms, and they certainly knew how to prepare them for delicious meals and beverages. From that moment on, I think the Americans were in love, very much impressed, or both.
That evening we enjoyed a large campfire for all of the trappers. The ladies joined in after the dishes were done by lantern light, and we presented the native trappers with gifts of extra traps we had brought along. Major Boddicker explained the reason we had travelled more than half way around the world to meet them was pretty much explained in a childrens song about the bear going over the mountain to see what he could see. After the simple lyrics were translated and explained. Boddicker led us in the song.
Following that each American offered his thoughts and compliments to our Soviet hosts, and toasts were made to the appreciation of both groups of people who happened to be trappers on opposite sides of the carth.
Many of use felt we were involved in an historic event, and we all felt proud to be friends with the Soviet trappers. We discovered our hopes were the same simple hopes. Our problems were the same, and we in fact were very much the same. Interpreters were kept very busy as the Soviets and Americans broke into smaller groups so visit, tell tales, and answer questions.
And then an unusual thing happened that 1 don't propose to explain. We all saw an object in the night sky. very high and very bright, make a path from north to south across the heavens. The light appeared lo be a large star or satellite, except one difference was a beam of light seemed to shine in front of it in a 180 degree arc. The lighl was bright enough and seemed to eliminate other stars as it passed by them. The object was visible to all of us for at least 10 minutes as it passed through the sky.
The thing made no noise that we could hear, and the only color visible was the impressive while light. 1 asked the Soviets through an interpreter if anyone had ever seen this type of display before. None had, and neither had any American. For a long
while we simply watched the object float through the sky, and only the women were heard to gasp and squeal at the sight.
Since our meeting was a first meeting, and the object in Ihe night was also a first to all of us, we decided it could only be a good omen or a blessing for our futures as trappers and inhabitants of the same earth.
The meeting lasted well into the night, and all felt a sincere sense of belonging lo a brotherhood that was a long time in coming.
Sharing a warming campfire with Siberian trappers our last night near the Arctic Circle was a special event that we will long remember The toasts and stories were welcomed in both languages, and it was a simple joy to set Americans and Russians communicating with and without the aid of the busy interpreters. The bright object floating through the sky reminded us all of our relative insignificance in the size and order of things, and it was clear to me that man's spirit, humor, and desire to be friends prevailed.
The sound of laughter lasted long and the fire was fed time and again. Gestures dominated every conversation to help compensate for unknown words and for emphasis as well. One American was observed arranging the marriage of his daughter, and the smiling Soviet seemed to think it all worth the pain as a lifetime supply of American traps went with the deal.
I surprized myself by staying at the fire until most others had gone off to iheir tents. It fell good to see trappers from opposite sides of the globe enjoy and begin to understand each other, so I relaxed and savored the smiles and laughter as long as I could.
Warm sleeping bags insulated us from the freezing temperatures that night, and we awakened early lo pack our gear, tear down our tents and cots, and cat a hot breakfast prepared by our hosts. Our hydrofoil boat had waited at camp for us since our arrival, and we planned an early start for the 96 mile trip back upstream to Yakutsk .
Groups of American and Soviet trappers hurried to take some last snapshots, and I was pleased to see most Americans deciding to leave items they either didn't further need or wanted to leave as gifts. These items included blue jeans and warm clothes, fishing rods and tackle, even sleeping bags. All were graciously received and the Soviet trappers lit flares, waved, and saluted as our boat backed out into the river current. For a half-mile or so two Russians drove their small boat next to ours with a lit flare held high, then our captain applied more power and our boat lifted and pulled away.
Hours later we approached the Sangar Settlement where we had planned to get fuel, but the dock space was taken. Not wanting to wait, our captain decided to continue. Unknown to us, he obviously made radio contact with a tugboat pushing barges of ore further up the river, and we tied up alongside the tugboat in midstream and sailors pumped the fuel we needed from their boat to ours. No papers were signed to record the transaction, and with a wave we simply pulled away and sped around the barges.
Lunch was served on the boat, and our hosts provided some entertainment for us by introducing each member of the staff. Since the travel company was a new private enterprise, it seemed as if some special people had offered or been selected to cater to our needs. One of our lady cooks is a doctor specializing in sports medicine. Another is a physical therapist. One of our guides is an author, explorer and mounlaineer, and another works in the Yakutsk bank. 1 understood that one of the Victors, an energetic man of about my own age. served as a judge in Yakutsk .
As we were speeding southward at nearly 45 miles an hour, we felt the boat jar as an object in the water was hit. The captain quickly shut down the fuel supply to stop the vibrations, and he made several backing attempts for reasons unknown to me.
To get a better view I went up on the top deck. I saw the captain gather a rope, take off his clothes except his briefs, and jump info the river. Taking a deep breath he submerged and frog kicked under the boat to survey the problem. Coming back for a breath he shouted orders to those who understood Russian, then a translator told me a log had become jammed between the ski-like hydrofoils. The solution was for the captain to tie the rope to one end of the log, then those of us on the top deck pulled until we freed it.
The captain drew a round of applause from those of us who saw the problem solved. Realizing the water temperature was about 39 degrees Fahrenheit, the somewhat blue captain earned a whole new appreciation from me. Later I learned the caplain had just bought the boat from the government. When the boat had been scheduled for demolition, he look advantage and found a way to begin his own experience in private enterprise.
I like the captain a lot. He demonstrated a lot of responsibility, courage, and a determination to participate in his own future. Men like that I want as my friends, only.
Our trip back in Yakutsk was without further event, and we dined once more at the Maiak cafe. As usual, we were served everything we could want to eat and drink. Although many were tired from the long day on the Lena River , some of us had accepted an invitation to visit the apartment of Victor, the judge. My belter sense suggested I retire back; to the hotel, but since better sense rarely directs my actions, 1 jammed myself into one of the little Soviet made cars to accept the man's welcome,
Built on stilts like other modern Yakutsk apartment buildings. I discovered it dark inside the entrance. With an all concrete construction, inside felt damp and even a little scary. Climbing the steps to Victor's apartment on the top floor, I was aware the concrete steps were inconsistent in size. Light bulbs were hanging where they were absolutely needed, and without an elevator, 1 wondered if older folks had to climb steps to high level apartments too.
Knocking on the door of apartment # 99 , we were greeted by Victor, his wife and teenaged son. A party was going on. Eight or so of our guides including all of the women were there, and were dressed very well. Victor's wife had prepared a variety of foods including sweets and drinks. Cranberries covered with flaked sugar were spicy and good, and beverages included vodka, cognac, and the traditional dark, powerful, instant coffee from India .
A highlight of the evening was a slide presentation of the region. We viewed the images projected against a sheet and enjoyed scenes of the rugged mountains, fishing trips, and family life. Victor had been to Cuba too, so we appreciated his collection of artifacts including corals and shells from thai part of the world.
By American standards, the apartment was small. The main living area was ap-proximately 10 by 14 feet . A den room measured about 8 by 10, the same size as the kitchen. Furniture was smaller than we commonly see here, and seemed scaled down to fit smaller room sizes. Everything was well-kept and reflected the pride and dignity of the family.
One of our fishing guides, a likeable and athletic young man, gave me a present of a book of the region. Fortunately I had a new muskrat skinning knife, with two blades and a yellow handle, and he seemed delighted to receive the American made product in return.
Next morning we put our packed bags into the bus and toured Yakutsk . We looked at some historical buildings and tried to shop after stores opened at 10:00 a.m. There were long lines to buy whatever was available, and that discouraged our efforts. I did purchase a dyed marmot hat from a street vendor, and suffered a long line to buy some trinkets for my family made from reindeer skins. I thought I was lucky to get a couple of necklaces and some small leather objects suitable for Christmas tree ornaments.
We didn't have much time to shop as our flight left Yakutsk at noon for Moscow, The sky was clear as we lifted off this time, and I was amazed to see as we left the Siberian city that all signs of life seemed to evaporate as we left the area. All I could see out the window for thousands of miles was forests, small lakes and an occasional river. The vastness of Siberia is difficult lo comprehend, but exhilarating.
Black bread and smoked fish were served on this flight along with beer. The Russian beer wasn't much to my liking. It tasted watery and hitler, and like all beverages in the U.S.S.R. is served warm. Pepsi's were also available, and familiar in taste. But why they too are preferred warm is a mystery to me.
Clouds covered the landscape the last third of the trip, so it was impossible to see more of the landscape. A flight of some 4800 miles westward, the return time in flight was six hours. However, we crossed six times zones enroute so landed in Moscow at noon, the same time we left Yakutsk. |
